美食之路:香港最佳餐饮场所

时间:2024-02-23 10:37:25  热度:0°C

GOURMET TRAIL/ THE BEST PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK IN HONG KONG

Amy

· 31 January 2024

·

DINING

Hong Kong stands firm as an epicurean’s playground with scores of new restaurants and bars to visit/

Hong Kong has long reigned as Asia’s gastronomic capital/ What lies beneath the metropolis/ replete with towering skyscrapers and a backdrop of majestic peaks/ is a culinary sojourn that isn’t quite like anything else in the world/ From revered establishments helmed by star chefs to everyday hidden gems/ the ever-bustling streets possess the very essence of its culinary narrative — one that holds true to its rich heritage and cultural convergence — drawing gourmands from around the world/ For a taste of the best places to eat and drink in Hong Kong/ these tables should be on your radar/

In The Mood For Tofu

Vicky Lau needs no introduction/ The award-winning chef is widely known for her impact on the culinary sphere/ Ever since debuting the “Ode To…” series served exclusively over lunch at the lauded Tate Dining Room where she presents tasting menus that focus exclusively on one main ingredient/ the humble tofu alumnus soon turned into an obsession/ As part of the opening of Mora/ a semi-casual restaurant focused on the exploration of tofu and soy/ Lau had dogged determination – and even acquired her very own tofu factory/ There/ she invests her time in research and experimentation/ from Champagne vinegar fermented tofu which peculiarly resembles textures and flavours of feta cheese to dried whey curds used as a substitute for almond flour to make cookies and financiers/

At Mora/ tucked away in the trendy neighbourhood of Sheung Wan/ Lau’s East-Asian-inspired creations honour the entire ecosystem of tofu production with cameos of successful experiments/ Bean curd skin is meticulously baked into a tartlet and used to cradle a harmony of soy cauliflower cream/ smoked eel and seaweed/ Soy milk is skilfully interpreted into a velvety lobster bouillon that coats each bouncy strand of udon that comes robustly flavoured with sakura ebi/ And a deftly sliced tofu — bearing resemblance to an anemone underwater—dances elegantly when steeped in a supreme broth delicately layered with fermented winter melon/ Tofu has never been this cool/

Modern Renaissance

A meal at Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 should be on your bucket list/ Situated on an uphill bend/ the Happy Valley stalwart has become a local jaunt for over a decade/ But ever since head chef Silas Li took over/ the humble nook has undergone a lavish facelift to evolve into a modern Cantonese restaurant/ Since the tender age of 16/ Li has cut his teeth in Western kitchens and is trained in classic French cuisine/ This homecoming/ together with Hong Kong Cuisine 1983’s new vision to revolutionise well-loved Chinese classics and celebrate its heritage/ is Li’s answer to the gradual disappearance of traditional recipes — mainly due to the industry’s unwillingness to share trade secrets/

While the dinner tasting menu promises an encompassing experience/ larger groups may opt for sharing portions in the a la carte menu that is studded with standouts/ Li’s interpretation of crab and eggs is a starter not to be missed/ Meticulously presented in an eggshell/ the dish unravels with delicate layers of fluffy steamed egg whites/ hua diao wine-infused Chiu Chow coral crab meat/ and lily flower root foam/ Finishing touches of homemade roast crab oil and crispy Japanese baby crab amplify the umami sensation with each spoonful/

For poultry lovers/ the succulent tea-smoked soy chicken beckons with sweet and savoury flavours as well as a salacious ribbon of smoke that lingers long after the finish/ Even the glistening glutinous rice ball wrapped in crackling chicken skin shows plenty of finesse and mastery/

Meal With A View

Jade/ a 230-seater waterfront restaurant—boasting panoramic views of the South China Sea— is nestled in a private enclave of Fullerton Ocean Park Hotel Hong Kong in Aberdeen/Well respected chef Lai Ching-shing sits firm at the helm/ His steady foundation in Cantonese cuisine and insistence on using the freshest seafood to deliver timeless dishes is worthy of the evident fanfare for Jade/

On Tuesday/ lunch hour/ the restaurant is teeming with an army of hungry diners — a clamorous mix of families/ sharply-dressed professionals/ and silver-haired retirees — all in search of classic Cantonese fare done right/ As for Lai’s culinary philosophy/ less is certainly more/ Take the signature baked crab shell/ for instance/ where pillowy morsels of fresh crab meat marry with the sweetness of onions under a veil of melted cheese/ Or the collagen-rich double-boiled fish soup/ complete with spotted grouper fillet/ scallops and fish maw/ arrives jam-packed with rich oceanic flavours/ For sweet endings/ consider indulging in an excellent panna cotta imbued with the warmth of ginger and textures of peach resin/

Old But Gold

While these restaurants may not be the newest kid on the block/ they too offer incredible dining experiences that are worthy of a shout/

On Hollywood Road/ David Lai’s Neighbourhood is as relevant as when it first earned its Michelin star/ where reservations — sometimes weeks in advance — are still a must/ For many/ the salt-baked chicken/ accompanied by a bed of rice with creamy yellow wine and morel mushroom sauce/ is the standout dish that sets Lai apart from the rest (tip/ always put in an advance order for it before your visit)/

Then there’s New Punjab Club/ a stylish tandoor grill house in Central that has maintained its one-Michelin-star status since 2019/ Here/ traditional Punjabi cuisine is unapologetically expressed with flair and finesse — the murgh malai tikka (spiced yoghurt chicken) is not to be missed/

Another hot spot is the Grand Majestic Sichuan/ a sultry modern Sichuan restaurant that transports diners to the heyday of 1970s supper clubs/ Renowned Sichuan food expert Fuchsia Dunlop plays an integral part in the creation of Chengdu-style dishes together with Singaporean head chef Theign Phan/

One For The Road

If you can only fit one bar in Hong Kong to imbibe in/ it has to be Bar Leone/ After an outstanding run at the Four Seasons’ Argo and garnering a long list of awards — including an impressive debut on the No/3 spot at Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022/ Lorenzo Antinori makes another splash in the cocktail scene with a sexy Italian-themed bar that brings a slice of Rome to the streets of SoHo/ The 70s is definitely in the house/ think walls plastered with vintage posters of Italian pop culture/ brightly tinted Murano glass chandeliers/ ox-blood leather booth seats/ and even retro arcade machines/

Unlike the maximalist interiors/ Antinori’s approach to his cocktails is both minimalist and full of contrast/ The Negroni/ for instance/ is honoured in three expressions/ a bittersweet classic with Campari/ a refreshing yuzu-laced white Negroni/ perfect for beating the summer heat/ and a lush coffee Negroni made using beans sourced directly from Nicaragua/ The hallmark is most certainly the Leone Martini/ which promises an ice-cold stiffer that drinks beautifully floral and savoury—thanks to a splash of dry marsala/ For light bites to line your bellies/ go with the memorable smoked olives or the Roman-stuffed pizza generously stacked with heaps of mortadella/

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